| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Ford 7.3 engine users?
The only reason I can see for EB not to increase the whoa, would be stopping air from going in works nearly as well as stopping it from coming out.
It’s not just about stopping air movement. It’s all about PSI exerted on the pistons. The most a throttled engine can do is a perfect vacuum which puts < 15 psi against the back of the pistons. An exhaust brake can compress to more than 4x that psi so much more force on the pistons and more stopping power.
Think of the difference in energy required to run a vacuum cleaner versus an air compressor.
|
wnjj
|
10/22/23 12:44am |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Thermostat not getting 12v
Sounds like you have a poor 12V connection from the fuse box to the furnace.
When you ran the jumper wire to test the thermostat and A/C, did you also connect the 12V wire from the furnace up there at the thermostat to the jumper? If there is a poor supply wire to the furnace that would send power from the jumper back down to the furnace to override the original connection. If that works you need to find the bad connection from the fuse box to the furnace.
Did you try running a jumper wire from the fusebox to the furnace instead of using the one that pulls down to 1.5V?
For the wire nuts you tightened, did you remove them and inspect the wires? They should never need tightened and I suspect the wires may be damaged. Make sure all of the strands are intact, particularly where the enter the insulation. If you pull the wire nuts you may need to cut the ends and strip them back a bit further to ensure a good connection. The wire nuts do not make the connection. Twisting the wires together is supposed to do that and the wire nuts only hold the twist in place.
|
wnjj
|
10/20/23 12:34pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Bulb out
$84 for a whole new assembly. Online videos make it seem pretty easy to replace.
Rockauto
First 2 minutes of this youtube video shows how to remove the panel. The controls just snap into the panel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1LbnbqijD8
If you replace the whole thing, you can see if the old one can be torn down and you'll now have spare LED's if you lose another.
|
wnjj
|
10/18/23 06:16pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Turning With A Long Bumper Pull Trailer
If you need just a bit more room, when you start to pull out you can even steer left with the truck until the point where you will need to crank it back to the right. This will shift the rear of the truck (and hitch ball) further left and make the trailer track a little closer to where your truck would have in a normal turn. It's not much but you may find yourself needing every bit someday.
This assumes clearance to the left of you as you pull out to not cause tail swing issues.
If you even need to make an even sharper right turn where you aren't pulling into traffic pull to the far side of the road you are entering, even to the point where you cannot complete the turn with the truck. Then back carefully into a more jackknifed position before taking back off again. That is the least inside tracking you can make a trailer do with a right turn.
|
wnjj
|
10/13/23 02:26pm |
Towing
|
|
RE: Thermostat not getting 12v
IF these are 12V power wires then what is the voltage of each one from a good frame ground? A wire tracer can be very helpful in tracing wires.
Good suggestion.
Use a length of scrap wire to connect to a known good ground like at the fusebox. Then measure with that ground versus the red wire at the furnace. Repeat the process with a known good 12V source versus the black wire to make sure the ground is good. As it is now, either wire could have a poor connection.
|
wnjj
|
10/09/23 11:57am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Thermostat not getting 12v
For some reason the images are only opening on my posts if you open them in a new tab. Atleast from my end, I'm not sure if they are showing up for you guys.
Pictures don't show for me but if I use the link they work fine. It could be my browser.
https://imgur.com/a/ZMrkahw
|
wnjj
|
10/09/23 11:54am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Inverter on Generator wiring?
How about a manual selector switch to choose between generator and inverter power like this one: https://www.amazon.com/VictorsHome-Changeover-Positions-Terminals-Universal/dp/B07MZ739CS/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1K078X1TF5BD5
Since each selection has different inputs and outputs, you would have to jump the outputs together when you connect them to downstream line.
|
wnjj
|
09/29/23 09:31pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Proper Power Receptacle For Home?
Our confusion stems from this quote:
Even though I've a 30 amp service I chose to create a "break out" box.
When, in fact, you have a 50 amp service and you are plugging in a breakout box with a 30 amp and multiple 20 amp outlets.
While probably not the correct terminology, I read it to mean the RV has a 30A service input (I.e. shore power cord), likely because it’s the only thing that made the rest of the comments make sense.
|
wnjj
|
09/01/23 12:19am |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: Proper Power Receptacle For Home?
Even though I've a 30 amp service I chose to create a "break out" box. That gives me one 30 amp on one leg, and two 20 amp on the other (yes, I know it is not balanced). Each outlet has its own breaker.
I find it most useful for winter camping as it allows me to heat 100% electrically in the cold.
I'm confused. A 30 amp RV service only has one leg. It is the 50 amp service that has two legs.
Looks to me like a 240V feeder to a box with a single 30A 120V and a pair of 20A 120V receptacles. Doing this allows you to use your 30A RV to max and at the same time run space heaters or other things on extension cords from the other leg.
|
wnjj
|
08/29/23 03:00pm |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: Predator gennys?
You do realize eco mode is like eco boost? It’s only eco until you need the power.
Yes, I do. It works great any time you need less than full power output, which is the case when running A/C. It only needs to start then the running power is much lower. On eco mode the generator slows back down to a moderate speed making it quieter and use less fuel.
Basically, I've never (continuously) needed all of the power so pretty much always benefit from eco mode.
|
wnjj
|
08/28/23 02:06pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Predator gennys?
A few anecdotes:
1. Honda 2000 has run several A/C units we've tried with it, at least at lower elevations. All with ECO mode ON.
2. A Champion 2000 would not run the same unit the Hondas did.
3. A pair of brand new Yamaha 2000's would not start my uncle's A/C unit while on ECO mode, despite the running load being quite low. You could switch to ECO once the A/C was running but it would not restart once it cycled off. This defeats the purpose of ECO mode.
Your mileage may vary but it would take a lot for me to leave Honda. They've earned their reputation.
|
wnjj
|
08/24/23 05:40pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Truck in front of the camper
8.1L's produce a lot of heat and do use oil, up to a quart every 1000 miles. Mobil 1 5W30 seems to hold up the best.
When I bought my 8.1L, my dad already had his. At the time he had read that running 10W30 helped reduce oil consumption. I cannot confirm it helps but I have been running it since new and at 70k miles it still goes a few thousand miles before it needs a quart.
|
wnjj
|
08/22/23 04:00pm |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: Truck in front of the camper
Been running a 2005 8.1L 3500 SRW with a ~4000lb wet Eagle Cap 950 since late 2006. I added Rancho adjustable shocks but not sure I noticed a huge improvement. I'm sure they are better than what OEM shocks would be once worn out. No issue with power even with a 2k trailer in tow. I've only checked the mileage a couple times and it's solidly in the 8's with mixed freeway and back roads.
Only ~70k miles on the truck with a MAF sensor, oil pressure sender and coolant cap replacement so far.
If you are looking for "any camper you find" you will need a dually or limit your choices to ~9.5' campers or less.
|
wnjj
|
08/15/23 06:17pm |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: Extension Hitch Question
The 600# tongue weight seems plenty high for a single axle trailer. Can you load the UTV further back to reduce that, making the 350# rated extension an option?
What is the approximate total loaded trailer weight?
Alternatively you could extend the tongue on the trailer which would not only move the jack back it would also lower the tongue weight.
|
wnjj
|
08/14/23 06:06pm |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: Trying to replace 120v outlet
I just replaced a single gang RV POS receptacle. I had 1 5/8 inches depth to play with. Bought a single gang "old work" box, took a Dremel and cut the box depth down to 1 1/2 inch depth. Then pulled Romex into the box and fastened the conductors to a residential receptacle.
By "cut the box depth" do you mean cut the back off of it? If so, that's no longer a box and misses the point of using one. If I misunderstood please forgive me.
|
wnjj
|
08/12/23 06:46pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Site squatters
Wow!
I see no reason under normal circumstances that there is a need to park your TV in another campsite. Just inconsiderate selfishness, too common today.
I can think of a simple one. If the site is kind of small and you have to park your vehicle crossways between the hitch and roadway it may be easier to just pull in the empty spot nearby if you're planning to leave again, provided you are there to move it if needed. What they could have done better under the circumstances is watch for the new arrivals and proactively move before they had to ask. Regardless, not a big deal.
We arrived to our reserved spot once to a complete setup with 2 tents and bunch of stuff all over the table. They didn't come back from the beach for 30 minutes or more. I explained that it was reserved and they happily packed up while I helped others in my party get parked in their spots. Kind of clueless on the squatters' part but no big deal.
|
wnjj
|
08/08/23 06:28pm |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: RV Breakers Trip on Shore Power but not Generator
No reason to order a new multimeter. Just touch the leads together when on the lowest ohm setting and see if it reads near 0.
Does the breaker trip with just the extension cord plugged in or does it need to be connected to the RV also?
|
wnjj
|
07/26/23 11:21am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Dead...
Water batteries weekly? That seems crazy unless the charger is over charging the batteries and boiling it out. A Progressive Dynamics (PD) charger will not harm the batteries plugged in full time. In fact it cycles as needed to keep them healthy.
I never added a drop of water in 17 years (with new battery about every 6 years).
If the OP has a cheap converter it would be money well spent to swap it out and continue using standard inexpensive batteries.
|
wnjj
|
07/24/23 02:33am |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: Dead...
What converter/charger model do you have? It matters.
I've used a generic Walmart EverLast (Interstate) battery, replaced about every 6 years since 2006. It's never needed any water. PD9245 converter plugged in 24/7/365 when not camping.
|
wnjj
|
07/20/23 05:38pm |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: Norcold 811 fridge not working on A/C
If you have the cover off the control board, check for 120V across the AC_HT (LO/HI) pins where the electric element plugs in while the fridge is on in AC mode. If you don't have 120V there and the 8 (7.5A) fuse is still good you may have a bad AC relay. If you do have 120V on those pins and the fridge still isn't cooling, you may have a bad electric element. You can test that with a ohm meter with the power OFF by measuring ohms across the same AC_HT terminals. It should measure ~40-50ohms.
The AC side is fairly simple with the power cord coming in routing one terminal direct and the other terminal through the fuse and relay to the heat element.
Our 621 model fridge intermittently failed on AC 5 years ago. I fixed it with a $2 relay replacement. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29727778.cfm
Service manual for your fridge here if it helps: https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/OM_N61N81_635485D_20210902.pdf
|
wnjj
|
07/12/23 04:07pm |
Tech Issues
|
